Uttarakhand, a state in northern India, boasts a rich tradition of unique jewellery. With two distinct communities, Kumaon and Garhwal, the region offers a wide variety of traditional designs. Renowned for its solid, simple, and elegant craftsmanship, Uttarakhand’s jewellery is crafted from gold, silver, and other brass or copper metals. Beyond their aesthetic appeal, these pieces carry symbolic meanings related to social status, religious beliefs, and local customs.
Letās explore some unique pieces from Uttarakhand
Bulaq
The gold ornament, traditionally worn by piercing the septum of the nose, is renowned for its handcrafted motifs, ranging from geometric designs to floral patterns. Skilled artisans meticulously shape the gold, transforming it into intricate designs. This jewellery piece is an important gift from the bride’s family and is worn by newly married women in the Garhwali, Kumaoni, and Jaunsari regions. Passed down through generations and preserved by older women, the Bulaq is a cherished family heirloom. Wearing it symbolises cultural pride and the enduring spirit of these women.
Kundal & Bali
In Uttarakhand, traditional earrings come in a variety of styles, each with a unique name, such as Monad, Murkhli, Munda, and Tugyal. Murkhli refers to silver earrings worn in the upper part of the ear, while Munad is a silver ornament worn specifically by men in the Kumaon region. The Bali is one of the most popular styles, characterised by its large, circular design made of gold. Kundals, on the other hand, are available in various shapes and sizes and can be crafted from both gold and silver. Modern designs often include gemstones and intricate patterns, reflecting personal preferences. These earrings are commonly worn during festive occasions and celebratory ceremonies.
Nathuli and Tehri Nath
The Nath is an iconic piece of jewellery worn by women in the Garhwal, Kumaoni, and Jaunsar-Bawar regions of Uttarakhand. Crafted from gold and adorned with intricate designs and pearls, this stunning ornament is a highlight for brides during weddings. The number of pearls on the Nath signifies the bride’s family’s status. While styles and designs may vary across regions, the Nath’s charm remains consistent. The Tehri Nath, especially renowned in Garhwal, is large and moon-shaped, featuring exquisite patterns inspired by flora and fauna. This piece beautifully reflects the rich culture of the Pahari people.
Kanphool
The Kanphool, meaning “Flower of the Ear,” is a traditional earlobe ornament cherished by Pahari women. Made from gold and intricately carved with floral motifs, it typically covers the entire ear. This beautiful piece, cherished by Jaunsari women, gracefully carries the essence of their cultural heritage.
Hansuli
Popularly known as “Khagwali” in Garhwal, the Hansuli is a choker necklace celebrated for its minimalist design. Traditionally crafted from silver, though sometimes made of gold, this necklace exudes stunning simplicity. Skilled artisans shape the metal into enchanting charms, featuring intricate details like delicate filigree (lace-like metalwork) and repousse (hammered metal) designs. Each sparkle and curve of the Hansuli reflects the rich tradition it represents, beautifully accentuating the natural grace of Pahari women.
Galobandh
Also known as ‘Galabandh,’ this prominent piece of Kumaoni jewellery is worn exclusively by married women around the neck. It features a distinctive design with a red belt adorned with elegantly arranged golden square-shaped elements, secured with thread. This unique ornament is more commonly worn in rural areas than in the urban cities of Uttarakhand.
Pahunchi
It is a gold bangle considered another auspicious piece of jewellery for marriage, mostly popular in the Kumaon and Garhwal regions. Its unique design features a base of red cloth adorned with gold beads, crafted with 1 tola or more, depending on the bride’s family’s status. The red colour is chosen for its auspicious significance for married women.
Pahari miniature paintings depict the diverse traditional jewellery of Uttarakhand, reflecting the rich cultural heritage of the Pahari communities.
Pahari Miniature Painting
It originates from the Himalayan region and offers a captivating portrayal of women adorned in exquisite traditional jewellery. These artworks often showcase ornaments such as the Nathuli (nose ring), Hansuli (neckpiece), and Pahunchi (bracelet), highlighting the rich cultural heritage of the Pahari people. The intricate details in these paintings not only capture the beauty of the jewellery but also emphasize its significance in daily life, as every woman in the Pahari region traditionally wore these adornments. Various Pahari schools of painting have contributed to this art form, producing legendary scenes that continue to inspire and fascinate art enthusiasts. Through the above painting, we get a glimpse of the elegance and cultural identity that define the Pahari region.
In conclusion,
traditional jewellery from Uttarakhand is a testament to the region’s rich heritage and intricate craftsmanship. These pieces are not just accessories; they are vibrant symbols of identity and cultural legacy. Uttarakhand jewellery plays a significant role in Indian miniature painting, where its detailed designs and cultural significance are vividly captured. This synergy between jewellers’ intricate work and the artistry of miniature paintings highlights the enduring legacy of Uttarakhand’s traditional adornments.
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By Shrushti Patel
