Yet another GI-tagged textile from South India is the Mysore Silk. And its history is associated with the revered Tipu Sultan, someone whose bravery is lauded in our history books! Among the widely-known sandalwood from Karnataka, Mysore Silk is another jewel in the crown, a light-weight and vibrant textile that wins hearts of many females.

So what is so unique about Mysore Silk?

The allure of Mysore silk sarees begins with their exceptional fabric. They are made from top-quality mulberry silk, and offer an unmatched softness and smoothness. Since mulberry silk is naturally breathable, it makes sarees perfect for all climates.

Mysore silk sarees are also known for their remarkable strength and durability due to the Korvai weaving technique. This method weaves together weft and warp threads in a way that creates a robust and nearly reversible fabric. The careful technique ensures that the saree maintains its elegance and drape over many years.

A distinctive feature of Mysore silk sarees is their double-tone shimmer. When viewed from different angles, the silk reflects light in a way that gives the saree a unique luster. The combination of this special sheen and a spectrum of colors creates a visually striking effect that enchants the eye.

Historical Overview

The origins of Mysore Silk date back to the 1790s when Tipu Sultan, the ruler of Mysore, was spellbound by a silk cloth presented to him by a Chinese Qing Dynasty ambassador. He was so stunned by this exquisite fabric that he sent delegations to Bengal and China to procure silkworms for cultivation. Then he established silkworm breeding stations and mulberry farms to support the rearing of silkworms in Karnataka itself. Within a century, Mysore had risen to become India’s leading silk producer.

However, by the early 19th century, the silk industry faced a downturn due to various economic factors. But Maharaja Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV of the Mysore Royal Family was undeterred. He revitalized the industry in the wake of Queen Victoria’s celebrations in Britain. He imported 32 power looms from Switzerland and established a silk manufacturing unit in Mysore. Under his leadership, sericulture flourished, and the unit’s capacity expanded as he acquired an additional 138 looms.

After independence, this 17-acre silk factory went under the control of the Government’s Sericulture Department and continues to operate today as one of India’s oldest silk manufacturing units, managed by the Karnataka Silk Industries Corporation (KSIC).

Continuing the family legacy, Srikanta Datta Narasimharaja Wodeyar of the Mysore Royal family supports the craft through his brand, Royal Silk of Mysore. He personally designs sarees, which are showcased and available for purchase at the Mysore Palace complex.

The making of Mysore Silk

Karnataka is the leading silk producer in India, contributing 9,000 metric tons annually, which is 45% of India’s total mulberry silk output. Making Mysore silk is an extremely laborious process that starts from the cocoon and ends at the loom.

The process starts with local sericulture farmers supplying the silk yarn. It is then sorted for quality. After sorting, the yarns are processed through semi-automatic machines to produce fine threads. The threads, which must be 27 “deniers” in thickness, are then twisted a thousand times to achieve the desired crepe texture. The weaving process is carried out using Dobby or Jacquard looms by skilled artisans.

The distinctive factor about this textile is their single-color base fabric made from 100% pure silk. This base is dyed in a single solid color without any design, allowing the intricate zari work on the borders to stand out. The zari used is genuine 24-carat gold from Surat, adding a touch of luxury to the saree. Some of the most common motifs in Mysore silk sarees are that of mangoes, peacocks, flowers, temple borders and geometric patterns that represent Karnataka’s rich heritage.

In essence,

words fall short to explain the opulent feel of Mysore Silk. The rich history of this fabric, an example of Tipu Sultan’s legacy, is etched in the cubicles of my head and the core of my heart. The pictures or the blog may not justify the craftsmanship and impeccable pulchritude of it, but your appreciation of the art form will. So visit Mysore whenever you can(ASAP!) and explore the cultural richness of the place and their exquisite sarees!

To learn more about Indian art and artists, download the Rooftop app from the App Store or Google Play to stay updated on our upcoming art events and workshops. Stay tuned to rooftop blogs and follow us on @rooftop_app.

By Vidhi Ojha