Kalamkari Painting: A Perfect Fusion of Art, Religion, and Tradition

Kalamkari is a traditional Indian textile art form that involves hand-painting or block-printing on fabric using natural dyes. The word Kalamkari evolved under the Sultanate's rule in Golconda, deriving from the Persian words kalam (or qualam), meaning pen, and kari, meaning work—literally translating to "pen-work." Another explanation for its name comes from the artisans, known as Kalamkars, whose craft became synonymous with Kalamkari. This intricate art has two main styles: Srikalahasti, which is entirely hand-drawn, and Machilipatnam, which relies on block printing. Traditionally, Kalamkari designs feature mythological stories, floral patterns, and elaborate motifs, reflecting deep cultural and religious significance. The painted scrolls, also called pattachitra by some, were known as Chintz by the British, Pintadoe by the Portuguese, and Kalamkari by the Mughals. Today, this age-old craft continues to be revered for its detailed artistry and eco-friendly production techniques.

Motifs & Significance:

Masulipatnam Kalamkari features nature-inspired motifs like trees, creepers, flowers, and leaves, while Srikalahasti Kalamkari focuses on Hindu epics such as the Ramayana and Mahabharata. Temple-style paintings often depict deities like Krishna, Shiva, Lakshmi, and Durga, with the Tree of Life being a prominent symbol.

Mediums & Techniques:

Srikalahasti artisans used natural dyes extracted from bark, flowers, and roots. Pigments were derived from madder root (red), pomegranate seed (yellow), mango bark, and myrobalan fruit (black).

Style & Aesthetics:

Masulipatnam Kalamkari, influenced by Persian art, utilised intricate woodblock printing and bright primary colors. In contrast, Srikalahasti Kalamkari emphasized fine linework, detailed subjects, and floral borders, with an earthy color palette from natural dyes.

Kalamkari has its origins in the 17th century in Masulipatnam, Golconda region of Andhra Pradesh, under the Nizam’s rule which was influenced by Persian aesthetics. But its roots go back over 3,000 years through cultural exchange and regional patronage. The temple style of Kalamkari emerged in Srikalahasti, a temple town in Chittoor District where artisans depicted Hindu gods and mythological stories. At the same time the Karrupur style developed in Thanjavur, where golden brocade work met intricate textile paintings. The art was shaped by two main communities: Naqgash artisans of Masulipatnam who introduced Persian motifs and floral patterns under Sultanate influence and Baloja artists of Srikalahasti who focused on religious themes and narrated Hindu epics like Ramayana and Mahabharata.

During the Vijayanagara Empire, Kalamkari received royal patronage, and artists created elaborate temple backdrops and decorative cloth panels. Mughal rulers further refined the art, introduced intricate detailing, and commercialized it. European traders also noticed the art; the British called it Chintz, and the Portuguese called it Pintadoe. Despite the challenges of industrialization, Kalamkari remains a revered textile art cherished for its storytelling, natural dyeing, and eco-friendly approach.

Srikalahasti Style:

The Srikalahasti style of Kalamkari is characterised by its intricate freehand drawing technique, where artists use a bamboo pen (kalam) to create elaborate designs. This method requires precision, as the entire composition is drawn manually, followed by multiple stages of dyeing and washing to enhance the depth of the artwork. Artisans extract natural dyes from sources like pomegranate peel, madder root, and iron filings for a rich, earthy color palette. The themes predominantly revolve around Hindu mythology, depicting stories from the Ramayana, Mahabharata, and Puranas. Deities like Shiva, Vishnu, and Durga are commonly illustrated, often framed with elaborate floral borders and decorative elements.

Machilipatnam (Pedana) Style:

The Machilipatnam, or Pedana, style of Kalamkari is distinct for its use of intricate block-printing techniques. Wooden blocks, carved with detailed patterns, are dipped in natural dyes and stamped onto fabric in multiple layers to create vibrant, repetitive designs. This labor-intensive process ensures precision and uniformity. Unlike the religious themes of Srikalahasti, this style is influenced by Persian aesthetics, featuring elaborate interlacing patterns of leaves, flowers, and vines. Signature motifs include the cartwheel, stylised lotus flowers, creepers, and birds like parrots and peacocks. The color scheme is bright, with a preference for deep reds, blues, and yellows, making it a popular choice for textiles and decorative fabrics.

Fabric Preparation

Kalamkari fabric preparation is an intricate process involving natural treatments to ensure the dyes adhere properly. The cotton fabric is first soaked in a solution of cow dung and buffalo milk for several hours to remove impurities and enhance its absorbency. It is then thoroughly rinsed in running water and treated with a solution made from Myrobalan fruit to eliminate any residual odor. Interestingly, the ripened fruit is used in the Masulipatnam method, while dried fruit is preferred in the Srikalahasti technique. This pre-treatment helps the fabric absorb natural dyes more effectively, ensuring vibrant and long-lasting colors.

Natural Dyes:

Kalamkari relies exclusively on natural dyes derived from plant and mineral sources. Indigo leaves are used to produce deep blue hues, while pomegranate rinds and mango bark yield rich yellows. Madder root is a key ingredient for red tones, whereas iron acetate, obtained from iron filings and jaggery, provides deep blacks. Alum acts as a mordant, fixing the dyes to the fabric and enhancing color vibrancy. The use of these organic materials not only ensures sustainability but also results in earthy, muted tones that define Kalamkari’s aesthetic appeal.

Drawing and Dyeing Process

The Kalamkari process is highly meticulous, involving multiple stages of painting, dyeing, and washing. Artists first outline the design using a kalam (pen) in the Srikalahasti style or carved wooden blocks in the Masulipatnam method. Iron acetate is applied for black outlines, followed by alum for red areas. The fabric is then boiled with madder root to develop the red dye. Wax is used to protect areas that should not absorb blue before the cloth is immersed in an indigo bath. Finally, yellow hues are painted using extracts from pomegranate and mango seeds. After a final wash and drying, the artwork’s true colors emerge in their full contrast.

Religious Importance

Kalamkari holds deep religious significance, especially in South Indian temples, where it has been used for centuries to depict Hindu deities and sacred narratives. Temple priests and patrons commissioned large Kalamkari scrolls as backdrops for rituals and storytelling. These paintings adorned temple walls, illustrating scenes from the Ramayana, Mahabharata, and Puranas. The Srikalahasti style, in particular, was dedicated to religious art, featuring detailed depictions of gods like Vishnu, Shiva, Durga, and Krishna. Devotees believed these artworks carried spiritual energy, making them an integral part of temple traditions and religious ceremonies, enhancing the devotional experience.

Storytelling Tradition

Beyond religious use, Kalamkari served as a visual storytelling medium, especially in an era when oral traditions dominated. Traveling artists, often associated with temples, used painted cloth scrolls to narrate epics and folklore to local audiences. These artworks functioned like illustrated manuscripts, with each scene unfolding sequentially, much like a modern comic strip. The intricate details and expressive figures brought stories to life, allowing people—especially those who were illiterate—to engage with sacred texts and historical events. This tradition helped preserve mythological and cultural heritage, passing down knowledge across generations through the art of Kalamkari.

Several skilled artisans and master craftsmen have preserved and advanced the Kalamkari tradition over generations. Padma Shri J. Gurappa Chetty, a renowned Srikalahasti Kalamkari artist, is celebrated for his contributions to the art form. His intricate mythological depictions have brought widespread recognition to this craft. Another notable artisan is Niranjan Jobbalgadda, known for his expertise in temple-style Kalamkari paintings.

In the Masulipatnam (Pedana) tradition, families of block-printing artisans have passed down the craft for centuries, ensuring its survival despite industrial challenges. Organizations like Lepakshi Handicrafts and various government initiatives continue to support these artisans, providing training and fair-trade opportunities. Today, many contemporary artists experiment with Kalamkari, blending traditional techniques with modern aesthetics to keep this art relevant in today’s market.

Kalamkari is a treasured textile art that blends history, culture, and craftsmanship. From temple backdrops to contemporary décor, this art form continues to evolve while preserving its essence. Supporting Kalamkari artists helps sustain this ancient tradition and ensures its survival for future generations.

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