Imagine painting shapes on threads before they are woven into fabric.… that’s ikat! When this art emerged in Pochampally, it flourished with a distinct characteristic of using a double ikat method on a silk cotton cloth. And that’s how Pochampally Ikat came into being. It sounds like decorating the cake before it’s baked – weird, right? I was dumbfounded! So let me answer the first question that plagued me:
Why paint the threads at all when you can paint after weaving too?
Dyeing threads before weaving ensures that the designs are directly embedded into the yarn, allowing artisans to create detailed patterns. Using this technique, patterns remain consistent throughout the fabric and are visible on both sides. It provides flexibility in design and helps maintain vibrant colors. Moreover, it prevents issues like dye bleeding that can occur if dyeing is done after weaving.
Background of Pochampally Ikat
In the 1950s, Bhoodan Pochampally, a town in Bhuvanagiri district of Telangana, became a center for weaving. The story starts with the village head wanting to improve local labor income. So he introduced the Ikat technique, known as ‘Chit-ku,’ brought from Chirala, a city in Bapatla district of Andhra Pradesh.This method involves dyeing threads before weaving. Local artisans quickly adopted this technique. It made Pochampally known for its detailed and high-quality silk textiles.
By 1999, the technique had reached around 10,000 families in 100 villages. This expansion made production more efficient and cost-effective. Precision improved with the advent of machines in the year 2000. And so, gradually, Pochampally earned the title ‘Silk City of India.’ It became famous for its silk Ikats, using silk from Bangalore and zari from Surat. In fact, sometimes weaving intricate geometric patterns could take up to 100 days for a single saree.
Types of Ikat
Ikat is a distinctive fabric weaving technique with several variations. In Telangana, the Pochampally Ikat is widely recognized, though it is locally known with multiple names like Buddabhashi, Chitki, and Pogudubandhu. Generally, there are three main types of Ikat.
Warp Ikat(or Single Ikat) involves resist-dyeing only the warp threads before weaving. The weft threads may be undyed or dyed in a single color. The design is apparent in the warp threads before the weaving starts, allowing for clear patterns. This technique uses fibers like silk, jute, or cotton.
Weft Ikat, on the other hand, involves dyeing the weft threads before they are woven. The patterns emerge as the fabric is being woven. This method requires careful alignment of the weft threads, making it a meticulous process where overall results are weighed more over precise patterns.
Double Ikat is the most complex and costly method, where both warp and weft threads are resist-dyed. These threads are then woven together to create intricate designs. Pochampally Ikat uses this double Ikat technique that results in elaborate patterns on the fabric.
Visual Elements: Motifs & Designs
Pochampally sarees feature various patterns like dots, birds, squares, stripes, diamonds, flowers, and checks. With time, new patterns have taken the fashion by storm like colorful weft ikat designs with zig-zag borders and abstract grids. In this technique, the choice of colors often drives the design, rather than the shapes/patterns themselves.
To bring it all together,
Ikat, an art form that has lasted for 5,000 years, reached India through the Silk Route and has since flourished in various forms across the country. Pochampally is one of the few districts that practices this art and has even received a GI tag for it. It’s time that we all appreciate and admire the art and the artisans who continue to practice such tough art forms and are keeping the rich legacy of our past alive.
To learn more about Indian art and artists, download the Rooftop app from the App Store or Google Play to stay updated on our upcoming art events and workshops. Stay tuned to rooftop blogs and follow us on @rooftop_app.
By Vidhi Ojha
