Among the vibrant culture of Kerala, a simple yet elegant Kasavu saree is a classic that adds to the cultural legacy of the state. It is donned by the Malayali community to weddings, temples and funerals. And if we talk about art, it has long been featured in a couple of beautiful paintings by Raja Ravi Varma.

What is Kasavu, though?

The word ‘kasavu’ does NOT refer to the saree itself but instead to the zari used in the border of the saree. Zari is the traditional thread made of silver and often plated with gold, which adds to the aesthetics of the fabric. Interestingly, the use of zari expands beyond just being a design element, it in fact symbolises prosperity and is said to bring good fortune. 

Origins of Kasavu Saree

It is believed that the origins of kasavu (traditionally known as Mundum Neryathum) can be traced back to the Buddhist era. The kasavu saree, while a single piece of cloth, closely resembles the traditional mundu-neriyathu, which is referenced in Buddhist literature as ‘Sattika’. In these texts, the mundu is called ‘antariya,’ and the upper body covering is known as ‘uttariya.’ The sari’s gold-bordered design is often thought to be inspired by the Graeco-Roman ‘palmyrene’ costume, which featured a long, unstitched cloth called ‘palla’ with a decorative border, worn over a flowing garment.

In the past, the concept of saree didn’t exist! Instead everyone wore a mundu (or dhoti), a garment that extends from waist till the ankles, be it a male or a female, with no customary garment to cover the upper body. In fact, in many places women were barred from covering their upper bodies and were taxed if they did so.

It was during Maharaja Balaramavarma’s rule in the early 19th century that kasavu was introduced both as a tradition and an innovation. The Maharaja and his chief minister, Ummini Thampi, revolutionised the handloom industry by inviting the ‘Shaaliyar’ weavers from Tamil Nadu to Kerala. This collaboration popularised the hand-woven kasavu saree, characterised by its cream cotton fabric and gold zari borders. The use of gold, a legacy from the barter system by incorporating it in places other than jewellery, added elegance to the garment, reflecting the region’s rich cultural heritage.

GI Tags & the clusters

In Kerala, the Indian government has awarded Geographical Indication (GI) tags to three distinct clusters known for their unique saree weaving traditions. These clusters produce the traditional Kasavu sarees and the white Kerala sarees with coloured borders, known as kara. Each saree’s identity is tied to its cluster of origin.

The three renowned clusters are:

1. Balaramapuram: Located near Trivandrum, this cluster’s artisans belong to the Shaliar community. Originally from Tamil Nadu, they were brought to Kerala by the Travancore royal family. Balaramapuram is renowned for its fine thread counts, such as 120s, and the use of pure zari, which is silver thread plated in gold.

2. Chendamangalam: This cluster is known for its sarees and Mundus woven with half-fine zari and thread counts of 80s-100s, characterised by minimal motifs. The artisans here were supported by the aristocratic Paliam family.

3. Kuthampully: This cluster produces white sarees with zari, featuring patterned and jacquard borders that may include human figure motifs. The artisan community, known as Devanga, was brought to Kerala by the king of Kochi.

Existing state of Kasavu Saree Industry

In Kerala, weaving clusters operate through village cooperatives, ensuring fair trade practices with literate weavers who receive fixed wages and bonuses, preventing exploitation. However, these practices raise production costs, making the fabric expensive. The clusters produce similar traditional products with little design variation, leading to seasonal competition during festivals like Onam and Vishu. The industry faces challenges as younger generations are not joining, though increased awareness from the 2018 floods and social media has sparked interest in these sarees for charity. Yet, to sustain the industry, demand must be expanded and marketed to affluent buyers. Kasavu sarees, valued for their comfort and elegance, are also being repurposed by foreigners into table linens and curtains, suggesting potential for broader applications.

Conclusively,

The beauty of Kasavu sarees is unparalleled, but the current challenges faced by the industry and its artisans could hinder its growth and sustainability. So much so that the art form may even diminish if the issues are not addressed. Not just preserving and revitalising, but also awareness among the upcoming generation is the key to ensure its continued relevance.

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By Vidhi Ojha