It is a mystical and meticulous process of creating a single yarn of silk, as heartbreaking as it is regarding the lives of the silkworms. Every story and every process has its own history, its own struggles, and its own strides. All of this adds depth to the legacy of this remarkable textile. But first things first:

Is it Kanchipuram or Kanjivaram?

‘Kanchipuram’ and ‘Kanjivaram’ are both used interchangeably. But in actuality, Kanjivaram sarees are a subset of Kanchipuram sarees. The term ‘Kanjivaram’ is often used in South India, while ‘Kanchipuram’ is the official or proper name of the town where these sarees originate.

Kanchipuram, situated in Tamil Nadu, India, is renowned for its stunning silk sarees. These sarees are traditionally crafted from pure silk. They are also celebrated for their intricate and vibrant patterns. Silk for these sarees is produced in South India but the pure gold and silver is traded from Gujarat. Moreover, the weaving process is laborious and can take weeks to finish. It is therefore carried out by skilled artisans who have perfected their craft over many generations.

These sarees are notable for their heavy silk fabric and the use of zari (gold thread) in their designs, which imparts grandeur and a luxurious look.

Rewinding 400 years…

Kanjivaram sarees have found their mentions in Hindu mythology. As the legend goes, the weavers of Kajivaram silk are descended from Sage Mrikanda, God’s master weaver who wove clothes from lotus fibres for deities. Years later, they settled in Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu and continued their mastery of weaving vibrant and bold sarees.

The renowned Kanchipuram saree weave originated 400 years ago in Tamil Nadu’s small town of Kanchipuram. The craft flourished under the Pallava dynasty from the 6th century CE when Kanchipuram was the capital. The town during that time featured well-planned roads and fortifications that drew global visitors and boosted weaving.

But a significant transformation of Kanjivaram silk from local craftwork into a major industry occurred during Krishna Deva Raya’s rule of the Vijayanagara Empire. The relocation of Andhra Pradesh weavers, the Devangas and Saligars, infused the traditional craft with new techniques and patterns. Remarkably, Kanchipuram also finds its mention in Sanskrit grammarian Patanjali’s books. A Chinese monk Hiuen Tsang who visited the town in the 7th century also noted its thriving weaving industry and numerous temples. The city’s cotton cloth was even exported to the Roman Empire during the Sangam era. Kanchipuram has remained one of the oldest and eminent weaving centers for 1500 years now. Even today, Kanjivaram or Kanchipuram silk sarees are cherished for formal occasions and celebrations.

Colors & Motifs of Kanchipuram Silk

Kanchipuram silk sarees are celebrated for their vibrant colors and elaborate patterns, inspired by temple art and mythological symbols. These sarees often feature contrasting colors and designs between the pallu and the body, showcasing a diverse range of shades and elements.

The motifs on Kanchipuram sarees have evolved significantly over time. Initially, the designs included traditional temple patterns such as pyramid shapes, checks, stripes, and floral elements. Over time, these motifs have expanded to incorporate images of fruits, animals, birds, and celestial figures like the sun and moon. Additionally, intricate depictions of mythological stories from the Mahabharata and Ramayana are now commonly featured. Interestingly, a majority of these motifs recur across art forms, be it paintings, sculptures, architecture or others.

Sometimes these sarees do not have motifs at all, deriving a minimalist yet elegant appeal from the fabric itself. On other times, weavers also use geometric patterns like diagonal lines, checks and circular shapes to break the monotony of a single colour.

Traditionally, Kanchipuram sarees were woven in a 9-yard length. However, modern versions often use a more practical 6-yard length. While the original gold and silver zari (metal threads) have been replaced with more cost-effective copper zari, the texture’s richness remains intact. The designs now include elaborate temple borders as well as geometric patterns such as diagonal lines and circular motifs, providing a variety of textures and visual interest.

Varieties of Kanchipuram Silk

Kanchipuram sarees come in several styles to suit different occasions:

• Plain Kanjivaram with Gold Border: This type features a single colour with a contrasting gold zari border.
• Temple Border Kanjivaram: This type is known for its distinctive zigzag temple border.
• Borderless Kanjivaram: It lacks a traditional border, focusing on the saree’s body design rather than borders.
• Traditional Kanjivaram: This one showcases classic motifs such as checks, coins, and temple borders, giving a glimpse of the traditional saree.
• Modern Kanjivaram Silk: It incorporates contemporary designs and colours, perfect for a modern look.

To sum it up…

These stunning sarees are symbolic of the rich traditions thriving in Tamil Nadu from ages. The GI tag given to them is a feather in their cap, underscoring its uniqueness and exceptional craftsmanship.

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By Vidhi Ojha