Textiles from South India: Kalamkari from Andhra Pradesh

Would you believe it when I say that Kalamkari textile was one of the reasons why the British gained power in India? Kalamkari is a 3000-year-old textile art form that uses a bamboo pen to hand-paint fabrics. It is derived from two Persian words that represent the process: qalam which means pen, and kari which means work or craftsmanship. And to add to the fascination of this art form, it uses 23 painstaking stages to complete!

The art of Kalamkari is done entirely by hand, with designs painted using a pen. It involves a meticulous 23-step process and uses naturally-sourced dyes. Due to its intricate and time-intensive nature, a single Kalamkari saree production can take up to 40 days to complete, with each step preparing the fabric for the subsequent one.

Kalamkari, as we recognize it now—with its resist-dyed fabrics adorned with detailed hand-painted patterns—originated around the 8th century AD. While the early forms of hand-painted textiles have been found in Indus Valley Civilization, this specific style of Kalamkari developed when Hindu mythologies were conveyed orally by wandering storytellers. These kalamkari textiles then acted as visual aids for the storytellers.

The craft evolved significantly with support from the Golconda Sultanate in Hyderabad and later the Mughal rulers of the Coromandel coast, who established specialized Kalamkari workshops. Their patronage led this art form to thrive, and the artists came to be known as ‘Qalamkars,’ as a reference to the pen-like tool used by them to paint.

When the British arrived in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, they were fascinated by Kalamkari. They named the textile ‘Chintz,’ deriving it from the Indian word ‘cheent’ meaning spotted. Chintz rapidly became a sensation in England and France, providing a colorful, patterned alternative to costly silk. Fashion icons such as Madame de Pompadour embraced Chintz for both apparel and décor.

Chintz became part of an extensive trade network linking India, Indonesia, and other regions, which contributed to the East India Company’s rise over the Mughals and their eventual control over India. The immense popularity of Chintz led to the Calico Acts of 1701 in England, which banned Indian chintz to safeguard local textile industries.

European attempts to mimic Chintz’s vibrant designs ignited innovations that spurred the Industrial Revolution. This impact is visible in French Toile de Jouy, a fabric style deeply influenced by Chintz. Today’s Toile de Jouy fabrics are well-regarded, though their Kalamkari roots are frequently forgotten.

Kalamkari is showcased through two distinct styles: Srikalahasti and Machilipatnam, each with its distinct charm.

Srikalahasti Kalamkari:
Srikalahasti Kalamkari is renowned for its freehand artistry. In this, artisans sketch intricate designs directly onto fabric, bringing out complex patterns with a personal touch. This style is characterized by its elaborate, hand-drawn themes and is frequently used in sarees and paintings. The designs often draw from nature, mythology, and folklore, presenting a timeless elegance with flowing lines and organic forms. In short, Srikalahasti Kalamkari's approach relies on freehand sketching, which adds a distinctive artistic element to each piece. It basically uses religious iconography of the Hindu tradition.

**Machilipatnam Kalamkari:
**Machilipatnam Kalamkari, originating from the coastal town of Machilipatnam, is defined by its precision in block-printing. Craftspeople use finely carved wooden blocks to imprint detailed patterns onto fabric, ensuring accuracy and consistency. This style is known for its structured motifs and vivid colors, often used in clothing, home décor, and artistic projects. The deliberate and orderly patterns create a visual narrative that reflects historical and cultural tales. The geometric and structured style stands in contrast to the freeform approach of Srikalahasti, highlighting meticulous craftsmanship and detailed patterns.

One of the types that is now almost extinct was the Karrupur style which involved a gold brocade along with Kalamkari.

Kalamkari showcases a diverse array of motifs, each with its unique charm and significance.

• Floral Designs: Floral patterns are central to Kalamkari art. These designs, featuring blossoms, leaves, vines, paisley, and lotuses, bring a vibrant array of colors and shapes to the fabric. They reflect nature’s beauty and symbolism, representing harmony, growth, and abundance.

• Animal and Bird Imagery: Kalamkari frequently incorporates motifs of animals and birds, such as peacocks, elephants, tigers, and deer. The peacock, in particular, symbolizes spirituality, grace, and prosperity, adding a touch of splendor to the fabric. Patterns featuring horses, elephants, and tigers evoke a sense of royal heritage and valor, connecting the art to ancient traditions and grandeur.

• Divine Figures: Inspired by Hindu epics like the Mahabharata and Ramayana, Kalamkari often depicts divine characters. Scenes featuring Krishna Raas-Leela, Parvati, Vishnu, and Shri Jagannath are common, each contributing a spiritual dimension to the art. These motifs are believed to offer blessings and protection, preserving the rich narrative of these ancient stories through art.

• Tree of Life: The Tree of Life is a prominent motif in Kalamkari, symbolizing interconnectedness, growth, and renewal. This design represents the connection between the heavens, earth, and the underworld, embodying nourishment and care. Its spiritual significance makes it a cherished element in both traditional and contemporary contexts.

• Geometric Patterns: In addition to natural and divine themes, Kalamkari also features geometric and abstract designs. These patterns offer a blend of symmetry, precision, and modern flair, bridging the gap between contemporary aesthetics and traditional craftsmanship.

Kalamkari is nothing short of magical! It embodies Rousseau’s quote, “Patience is bitter, but its fruit is sweet.” Not literally, but figuratively—you get the gist, right? It’s disheartening that we are gradually forgetting to appreciate the beauty that comes with time, only to seek instant dopamine from technology and machines. Simply understanding the intricacies of this art form, if not learning it, can help us feel at home by connecting us to the roots of our culture. Take a pause today to go back in time and understand the essence of living and rediscover the value of patience.

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By Vidhi Ojha